Seed germination normally depends on natural forces, if we mimic the conditions of the outdoors we can sprout seeds and get a head start on the growing season.
Getting seedlings growing early means that the plants will have more time to mature, they will be more likely to produce fruit and survive an early frost.
Here is the first iteration of my seed starting set up. I am attempting to germinate Alpine Strawberries, a light sprinkling of seeds across the top of a mix of potting soil and vermiculite. Vesca Baron are photoblastic, or need light to germinate. An 18" shop light is placed directly on top of the starter tray. The two florescent tubes are specialty terrarium bulbs that produce a close proximity to natural light, or a wider range of blue and red light, the part of the spectrum plants need to grow. Seedlings that do not have enough light get "leggy", or tall and weak as they reach out to find more light. Keeping the grow light as close as possible to the plants will mitigate this, simply raise the lights as the seedlings get taller. Light can be left on the plants for as much as 16 hours a day. In the bottom left of the photo you can see my automatic timer, some Sears relic I had lying around. Starting seedlings in a South facing window can also be a big help, but may need supplemental artificial light as winter light is still scarce.
This plastic tub I also had lying around saved me a few bucks as a starter tray. It is also very important that the seeds stay moist so that the hard outer shell of the seed can be weakened, and the germ-plasm can push through. The tub's locking lid helps to trap moisture making my job very easy. The clear plastic of the tub lights up nicely, although there is light leakage right now, it could be remedied with a white cloth over top, or a mirrored surface surrounding it.
Underneath the tub there is a seedling heat mat. The whole set-up is on the floor in the basement, which would not be conducive for growth without extra warmth. Seeds usually need anywhere from 60-75 degrees F to break their dormancy. The seedling heat mat gently raises the temperature keeping the soil warm which allows the seed to begin its growth and gives the roots favorable conditions. A cheap alternative is to keep your seedlings on the top of your fridge where heat from the motor is normally warm enough.
Stratification is the process by which seeds are put in an often necessary dormant state of cold/moist temperatures which help to break down the seeds hard outer shell.
Scarification happens when a seed has its outer shell scratched or disturbed to make it easier for moisture to enter. Easily achieved with a few runs over with sand paper.
Once seeds germinate it is a good idea to uncover them at least for a while so that gasses can be exchanged. Excess moisture can cause mold to form which may injure your young plants. It helps the development of seedling to have some air movement, enough to get it swaying in the breeze. This is important for strengthening the stem of the plant. All plants respond to external stimuli, the development of a young plant can determine how it will perform later in life. I keep a close eye on my young plants to ensure that conditions are optimal.
Getting seedlings growing early means that the plants will have more time to mature, they will be more likely to produce fruit and survive an early frost.
Here is the first iteration of my seed starting set up. I am attempting to germinate Alpine Strawberries, a light sprinkling of seeds across the top of a mix of potting soil and vermiculite. Vesca Baron are photoblastic, or need light to germinate. An 18" shop light is placed directly on top of the starter tray. The two florescent tubes are specialty terrarium bulbs that produce a close proximity to natural light, or a wider range of blue and red light, the part of the spectrum plants need to grow. Seedlings that do not have enough light get "leggy", or tall and weak as they reach out to find more light. Keeping the grow light as close as possible to the plants will mitigate this, simply raise the lights as the seedlings get taller. Light can be left on the plants for as much as 16 hours a day. In the bottom left of the photo you can see my automatic timer, some Sears relic I had lying around. Starting seedlings in a South facing window can also be a big help, but may need supplemental artificial light as winter light is still scarce.
This plastic tub I also had lying around saved me a few bucks as a starter tray. It is also very important that the seeds stay moist so that the hard outer shell of the seed can be weakened, and the germ-plasm can push through. The tub's locking lid helps to trap moisture making my job very easy. The clear plastic of the tub lights up nicely, although there is light leakage right now, it could be remedied with a white cloth over top, or a mirrored surface surrounding it.
Underneath the tub there is a seedling heat mat. The whole set-up is on the floor in the basement, which would not be conducive for growth without extra warmth. Seeds usually need anywhere from 60-75 degrees F to break their dormancy. The seedling heat mat gently raises the temperature keeping the soil warm which allows the seed to begin its growth and gives the roots favorable conditions. A cheap alternative is to keep your seedlings on the top of your fridge where heat from the motor is normally warm enough.
Stratification is the process by which seeds are put in an often necessary dormant state of cold/moist temperatures which help to break down the seeds hard outer shell.
Scarification happens when a seed has its outer shell scratched or disturbed to make it easier for moisture to enter. Easily achieved with a few runs over with sand paper.
Once seeds germinate it is a good idea to uncover them at least for a while so that gasses can be exchanged. Excess moisture can cause mold to form which may injure your young plants. It helps the development of seedling to have some air movement, enough to get it swaying in the breeze. This is important for strengthening the stem of the plant. All plants respond to external stimuli, the development of a young plant can determine how it will perform later in life. I keep a close eye on my young plants to ensure that conditions are optimal.
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